April 24, 2007
Increasing numbers of all female expeditions are exploring the world's mountain ranges, achieving highly technical climbs in a sport traditionally dominated by men. Pakistani women are ready to join the world of climbing as well. Their country is home to three major mountain ranges - the Himalaya, Karakoram and Pamir - and K2, the second highest mountain in the world. Pakistani women have been unable to learn to climb as cultural norms do not allow contact between men and women who are not directly related and all the climbing instructors in Pakistan are men.
A group of American guides will travel to Pakistan in the summer of 2007 to facilitate a mountaineering course for up to 100 female Pakistani women. The goal of the project is to expose women to the world of climbing and mountaineering. Their experience may lead to careers not previously available to them in a growing tourism industry, in mountain rescue or guiding.
The course will take place on and around the Passu and Batura glaciers in Northern Hunza, followed by an attempt 19,619-foot Kusheikh Peak, near Khunjerab Pass. Training will be progressive, starting with the basics of mountain survival, travel, and safety. Technical rock and ice climbing as well as glacier travel and self-rescue will be taught throughout the course.
The All-Star Guides are: Charlotte Fox, Heidi Kloos, Janet Bergman, Danika Gilbert, Sallie Dean Shatz (photographer) and Cherie Silvera (filmmaker)
The Mountain Fund - www.mountainfund.org is providing equipment and funding to assist in this rare effort to bring Pakistani women into the domain of the climbing world. The climbing camp will be coordinated by the American Alpine Club and the Pakistan Alpine Club. Help make history ! Please visit www.mountainfund.org and make a donation to support this groundbreaking climbing camp for Pakistani women.
About The Mountain Fund:
A Global Community for Change.
What does it mean to be a Global Community For Change? Poverty, its causes and sypmtoms are complex. There is no one size fits cure-all. Education alone isn't enough, healthcare alone won't create postive and lasting change, neither will support of women's and children's programs. As the popular NPR program "The Bioneers" says, its all connected.. Healthcare can help create children who go off to school ready and able to learn. A quality education is needed to prepare young minds for the future. Following an education, job opportunies are needed as well as access to capital for business to create those jobs. A weak link in this chain and the child is forever locked in the poverty cycle. That's why The Mountain Fund supports efforts in all of these areas, it takes more than a village to raise a child. It takes healthy, literate families with access to support, employment and capital.
A totally unique approach:
The Mountain Fund, unlike many nonprofit organizations, does not create new programs and new services in communities where they already exist. A majority of our work is accomplished in partnership with existing community based programs. In many villages, in many countries around the world, good people with strong ties to the community have already identified the need to provide healthcare, build schools, empower women and start micro-finance programs. We build on the prescense and success of these community based organizations and help them to grow stronger and accomplish more. There is no need to re-invent the wheel where a perfectly good wheel exists. We do have a few direct programs that we have started where we were unable to find existing programs to partner with or where our programs add value to to community based parnters we already have.
The Mountain Fund
Scott MacLennan,
Executive Director
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
Sunday, April 22, 2007
Pakistan: Climbing Peaks and Moving Mountains
Originally appeared in She Sends Magazine.
by Jane Courage
AFTER 9/11, most American climbers and trekkers crossed Pakistan off their ticklist. Today, the number of American climbers and trekkers who visit the area is at an all-time low. Some, like me, still yearn to visit Pakistan, but we now face new questions about whether Americans should go: What are the risks? Whose information is reliable, and what does “reliable” mean these days? Bigger questions about the impact of climbing expeditions on mountain villagers, and how to reduce that impact, remain.
Greg Mortenson, 47, co-founder and director of the Central Asia Institute (CAI), has some answers. Mortenson began his work in northern Pakistan in 1993 after his arduous K2 climb the same year. On the trek out, he became exhausted, and in a very remote area, bonked. “I was in really bad shape,” he says. “A villager took me in; he literally saved my life. I asked him what I could do to repay him. The villager said, ‘Build a school.’”
Since that time, the CAI has built more than 48 schools and has implemented many other important projects. It supports community-based educational programs, especially for girls, in remote mountain regions of Central Asia, including Pakistan and Afghanistan. Each project involves local people in all phases: planning, implementation and evaluation. A committee of elders and experts guides each selected project. “The primary emphasis is empowering mountain communities through education—especially for girls,” Mortenson says.
Mortenson’s observations come from years of experience. Before his K2 sojourn, Mortenson admits, “I was a total dirtbag climber—that was all I lived for. That phase lasted about 10 years. So I can totally relate to climbers. Although I’m a little cynical now, I have very fond memories of that time of my life. It was a really wonderful time.” Although peak-bagging in Pakistan is about the last thing on Mortenson’s mind, he owes his passion for his Pakistan education efforts to his climber roots.
Mortenson took time out of his busy schedule to speak with me about climbers’ concerns and climbers’ impact on mountain culture.
Do you think it’s safe for climbers—especially women—to go to Pakistan?
In the last 50 years, about 250 climbers and trekkers have died in the mountains of Pakistan. Most of those have died from illness, injury, avalanche and so on. Only three foreigners have been murdered in the climbing area of northern Pakistan. Ned Gillette was murdered in 1998 in Haramosh valley, northern Pakistan, and in 2003, a young Polish couple was killed. The people who get into real trouble in Pakistan are the ones who travel alone without guides, porters or any sort of help. Pakistan has rules and customs; if you break them, you may not die, but you might get hurt. It is critical to travel with respected Pakistani guides. Women should never travel alone. Even if you have a group of women who want to go, you must have reliable guides and porters with you.
If someone asks what my religion is, what should I say?
Basically, the average person in Pakistan has respect for the “Kitab,” meaning The Book, any spiritual doctrine. They respect that. The Koran, the Bible and other sacred texts are considered “Kitab.” Therefore, if you go to Pakistan and someone asks what religion you are, you just say “Kitab.” By saying this, you are telling them, “I believe in something sacred.”
Aside from objective hazards, such as rock fall, avalanche, altitude, dehydration and so on, what kinds of actions or behavior will put climbers at risk in Pakistan? What kinds of risky and/or stupid actions have you observed?
Immodesty and overall disrespect: showing skin and being flagrant about it—T-shirts, shorts and so on. Leave the arrogant and cocky attitudes (the “Sahib Complex”) at home. That’s the last thing you need to bring.
At police checkpoints, I’ve seen Americans sign their name as Dick Head, Slick Willy and Mr. Phallic. Well, if that climber needed police help, you can be sure he or she would take it! The locals are assigned to protect the treks, and they take their work very seriously. In fact, they are obligated by tribal law to protect the groups they escort with their lives. So, instead of disrespecting the police, escorts and porters by acting arrogant or juvenile, climbers and trekkers really need to show respect.
How did 9/11 affect expeditions to Pakistan?
In 2001, there were 72 expeditions; that was a record trekking and climbing year in Pakistan. After 9/11, it plummeted. Only 24 expeditions went in 2002; that was a 20-year low for climbing and trekking in Pakistan. Trekking and climbing expeditions have a huge impact on the whole region. It affected more than just the outfitters in Islamabad; it affected the porters, the farmers and the sellers. In 2003, there were 40 expeditions, and in 2004, there were 68 expeditions. However, very few of those expeditions were American. Americans have been very reluctant to come back.
How have climbers and trekkers affected the lives of locals?
In many ways, there has been a profound change in the economic and social standards of the [expedition region] because of the climbers and trekkers. I speak Balti and have gotten to know the Balti women, especially the elders. These women are from the remote mountain villages that climbers go through. They told me that in the last one or two generations, the workload for women has doubled; this is because about half the men leave the village during climbing season. The men try to get jobs as porters, cooks or expedition support. Thus, the hard manual labor the men would normally do—breaking stones, building structures, etc.—becomes the responsibility of the women. Sadly enough, the women are already very weak. So, doing back-breaking physical labor, in addition to their other demanding chores, puts tremendous stress on the village women. Many climbers and trekkers do not see this effect. In fact, many people would say that expeditions are good for the area because they bring in money. However, CAI did a survey over five years, from 1997 to 2002. In that survey, we interviewed about 800 porters. We learned that about half the men leave their villages in the trekking/climbing season to be expedition support. Only half of those who leave get a job. Those who get a job make decent wages, about 20,000 rupees (350 USD).
The rest of this article can be found at:
http://www.stellarmag.com/features/pakistan_climbing
by Jane Courage
AFTER 9/11, most American climbers and trekkers crossed Pakistan off their ticklist. Today, the number of American climbers and trekkers who visit the area is at an all-time low. Some, like me, still yearn to visit Pakistan, but we now face new questions about whether Americans should go: What are the risks? Whose information is reliable, and what does “reliable” mean these days? Bigger questions about the impact of climbing expeditions on mountain villagers, and how to reduce that impact, remain.
Greg Mortenson, 47, co-founder and director of the Central Asia Institute (CAI), has some answers. Mortenson began his work in northern Pakistan in 1993 after his arduous K2 climb the same year. On the trek out, he became exhausted, and in a very remote area, bonked. “I was in really bad shape,” he says. “A villager took me in; he literally saved my life. I asked him what I could do to repay him. The villager said, ‘Build a school.’”
Since that time, the CAI has built more than 48 schools and has implemented many other important projects. It supports community-based educational programs, especially for girls, in remote mountain regions of Central Asia, including Pakistan and Afghanistan. Each project involves local people in all phases: planning, implementation and evaluation. A committee of elders and experts guides each selected project. “The primary emphasis is empowering mountain communities through education—especially for girls,” Mortenson says.
Mortenson’s observations come from years of experience. Before his K2 sojourn, Mortenson admits, “I was a total dirtbag climber—that was all I lived for. That phase lasted about 10 years. So I can totally relate to climbers. Although I’m a little cynical now, I have very fond memories of that time of my life. It was a really wonderful time.” Although peak-bagging in Pakistan is about the last thing on Mortenson’s mind, he owes his passion for his Pakistan education efforts to his climber roots.
Mortenson took time out of his busy schedule to speak with me about climbers’ concerns and climbers’ impact on mountain culture.
Do you think it’s safe for climbers—especially women—to go to Pakistan?
In the last 50 years, about 250 climbers and trekkers have died in the mountains of Pakistan. Most of those have died from illness, injury, avalanche and so on. Only three foreigners have been murdered in the climbing area of northern Pakistan. Ned Gillette was murdered in 1998 in Haramosh valley, northern Pakistan, and in 2003, a young Polish couple was killed. The people who get into real trouble in Pakistan are the ones who travel alone without guides, porters or any sort of help. Pakistan has rules and customs; if you break them, you may not die, but you might get hurt. It is critical to travel with respected Pakistani guides. Women should never travel alone. Even if you have a group of women who want to go, you must have reliable guides and porters with you.
If someone asks what my religion is, what should I say?
Basically, the average person in Pakistan has respect for the “Kitab,” meaning The Book, any spiritual doctrine. They respect that. The Koran, the Bible and other sacred texts are considered “Kitab.” Therefore, if you go to Pakistan and someone asks what religion you are, you just say “Kitab.” By saying this, you are telling them, “I believe in something sacred.”
Aside from objective hazards, such as rock fall, avalanche, altitude, dehydration and so on, what kinds of actions or behavior will put climbers at risk in Pakistan? What kinds of risky and/or stupid actions have you observed?
Immodesty and overall disrespect: showing skin and being flagrant about it—T-shirts, shorts and so on. Leave the arrogant and cocky attitudes (the “Sahib Complex”) at home. That’s the last thing you need to bring.
At police checkpoints, I’ve seen Americans sign their name as Dick Head, Slick Willy and Mr. Phallic. Well, if that climber needed police help, you can be sure he or she would take it! The locals are assigned to protect the treks, and they take their work very seriously. In fact, they are obligated by tribal law to protect the groups they escort with their lives. So, instead of disrespecting the police, escorts and porters by acting arrogant or juvenile, climbers and trekkers really need to show respect.
How did 9/11 affect expeditions to Pakistan?
In 2001, there were 72 expeditions; that was a record trekking and climbing year in Pakistan. After 9/11, it plummeted. Only 24 expeditions went in 2002; that was a 20-year low for climbing and trekking in Pakistan. Trekking and climbing expeditions have a huge impact on the whole region. It affected more than just the outfitters in Islamabad; it affected the porters, the farmers and the sellers. In 2003, there were 40 expeditions, and in 2004, there were 68 expeditions. However, very few of those expeditions were American. Americans have been very reluctant to come back.
How have climbers and trekkers affected the lives of locals?
In many ways, there has been a profound change in the economic and social standards of the [expedition region] because of the climbers and trekkers. I speak Balti and have gotten to know the Balti women, especially the elders. These women are from the remote mountain villages that climbers go through. They told me that in the last one or two generations, the workload for women has doubled; this is because about half the men leave the village during climbing season. The men try to get jobs as porters, cooks or expedition support. Thus, the hard manual labor the men would normally do—breaking stones, building structures, etc.—becomes the responsibility of the women. Sadly enough, the women are already very weak. So, doing back-breaking physical labor, in addition to their other demanding chores, puts tremendous stress on the village women. Many climbers and trekkers do not see this effect. In fact, many people would say that expeditions are good for the area because they bring in money. However, CAI did a survey over five years, from 1997 to 2002. In that survey, we interviewed about 800 porters. We learned that about half the men leave their villages in the trekking/climbing season to be expedition support. Only half of those who leave get a job. Those who get a job make decent wages, about 20,000 rupees (350 USD).
The rest of this article can be found at:
http://www.stellarmag.com/features/pakistan_climbing
American Climbers to Teach Pakistani Women
American Climbers to Teach Pakistani Women
By Dougald MacDonald
A small team of American women will head to Asia this summer to train Pakistani women in mountaineering skills. The program is a joint effort of the Alpine Club of Pakistan and the American Alpine Club, and the team tentatively includes Janet Bergman, Charlotte Fox, Danika Gilbert, Heidi Kloos, and Cherie Silvera. Up to 100 Pakistani girls and women will participate. Initial practice in rock and snow climbing will be followed by glacier-skills training for advanced students. An expedition of about 15 women then will climb 19,619-foot Kusheikh Peak, near Khunjerab Pass in far northern Pakistan.
Seeds for the women?s climbing program were planted last summer, when AAC vice president Steve Swenson and other American climbers met with the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP), following an expedition to the Latok group. The ACP asked for the Americans? help, hoping to jump-start efforts to introduce the nation?s women to mountaineering. The ACP will cover all in-country expenses and organization for the month-long program, but donations are being sought to help the American women travel to Pakistan. For more information, contact Charlotte Fox at cfoxalpine@earthlink.net.
Sources: Charlotte Fox, Alpine Club of Pakistan
article: http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/teachpakiwomen/
By Dougald MacDonald
A small team of American women will head to Asia this summer to train Pakistani women in mountaineering skills. The program is a joint effort of the Alpine Club of Pakistan and the American Alpine Club, and the team tentatively includes Janet Bergman, Charlotte Fox, Danika Gilbert, Heidi Kloos, and Cherie Silvera. Up to 100 Pakistani girls and women will participate. Initial practice in rock and snow climbing will be followed by glacier-skills training for advanced students. An expedition of about 15 women then will climb 19,619-foot Kusheikh Peak, near Khunjerab Pass in far northern Pakistan.
Seeds for the women?s climbing program were planted last summer, when AAC vice president Steve Swenson and other American climbers met with the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP), following an expedition to the Latok group. The ACP asked for the Americans? help, hoping to jump-start efforts to introduce the nation?s women to mountaineering. The ACP will cover all in-country expenses and organization for the month-long program, but donations are being sought to help the American women travel to Pakistan. For more information, contact Charlotte Fox at cfoxalpine@earthlink.net.
Sources: Charlotte Fox, Alpine Club of Pakistan
article: http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/teachpakiwomen/
First Women Rock Climbing Competition March 30-31
1st. Women Rock Climbing Competition on March 30-31
Written by pub
Wednesday, 21 March 2007
ISLAMABAD, Mar 21 (APP): The Adventure Club Pakistan is organizing first ever women rock climbing competition in Pakistan on March 30-31.
The program is included in the Calendar of Events of Ministry of Tourism, Government of Pakistan for the Visit Pakistan Year 2007, being celebrated to project the image of the country as Destination Pakistan 2007, said a Ministry Spokesman on Wednesday.
The Adventure Club has been promoting adventure activities in Pakistan and has organized several training programs and expeditions, especially for women and families. The Club has a distinction as two of its female members have crossed the semi technical and hazardous passes above 5000 meters i.e. Mazino Pass, Hispar Pass and Ghondoghoro La.
The Club has trained more than 100 rock climbers ( beginners’ level ) and has produced some fine male and female rock climbers in past years.
To celebrate Visit Pakistan Year, 2007, and to commemorate Women Day ( March 08 ) the Club announced first ever Women Rock Climbing Competition at Margalla Hills here.
The program was included in the Calendar of Events of Ministry of Tourism.
Finding the great interest and enthusiasm from various institutes and individuals, the program is being held on March 30-31, instead of March 08, which was initially planned on Women Day, the spokesman added.
Federal Minister of Tourism, Ms. Nilofar Bakhtiar will grace the occasion and will distribute awards among the winners of the competition.
The last date for entry is March 28 and The Adventure Club has especially organized training sessions for interested enthusiasts on a prior notice and confirmation (for groups of 10 to 20 members).
Further details can be had on phone number 0333-5128519
article: http://www.app.com.pk/en/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=6386&Itemid=2
Written by pub
Wednesday, 21 March 2007
ISLAMABAD, Mar 21 (APP): The Adventure Club Pakistan is organizing first ever women rock climbing competition in Pakistan on March 30-31.
The program is included in the Calendar of Events of Ministry of Tourism, Government of Pakistan for the Visit Pakistan Year 2007, being celebrated to project the image of the country as Destination Pakistan 2007, said a Ministry Spokesman on Wednesday.
The Adventure Club has been promoting adventure activities in Pakistan and has organized several training programs and expeditions, especially for women and families. The Club has a distinction as two of its female members have crossed the semi technical and hazardous passes above 5000 meters i.e. Mazino Pass, Hispar Pass and Ghondoghoro La.
The Club has trained more than 100 rock climbers ( beginners’ level ) and has produced some fine male and female rock climbers in past years.
To celebrate Visit Pakistan Year, 2007, and to commemorate Women Day ( March 08 ) the Club announced first ever Women Rock Climbing Competition at Margalla Hills here.
The program was included in the Calendar of Events of Ministry of Tourism.
Finding the great interest and enthusiasm from various institutes and individuals, the program is being held on March 30-31, instead of March 08, which was initially planned on Women Day, the spokesman added.
Federal Minister of Tourism, Ms. Nilofar Bakhtiar will grace the occasion and will distribute awards among the winners of the competition.
The last date for entry is March 28 and The Adventure Club has especially organized training sessions for interested enthusiasts on a prior notice and confirmation (for groups of 10 to 20 members).
Further details can be had on phone number 0333-5128519
article: http://www.app.com.pk/en/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=6386&Itemid=2
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